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Rat Rod of the Day / Wagon Wednesday
« Last post by lowboy on Today at 04:23:52 AM »
Wednesday Better be good or your grandson/daughter will write y'all a ticket Haha
Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Drive line angle
« Last post by just old on July 16, 2019, 07:21:02 AM »
I only no on my 2 it comes to about 7 degrees I don't no were I found that but that is what I used
Rat Rod of the Day / Tuesday
« Last post by lowboy on July 16, 2019, 04:27:08 AM »
Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Drive line angle
« Last post by Ratty51F1 on July 15, 2019, 04:58:36 PM »
In the photo hotwheels posted is the same American power train is using in their paperwork I have, they state the optimum angles at rest are equal and opposite 2.5 degrees just like in the pic, from my understanding under Full power you want the whole combo to "straighten out" to transmit that power with minimum drag.... yes Spicer recommends .5 degree for grease/bearing movement but we are talking FULL power ... your not there that often(some more than others  8) )

I know the rear end yoke rises under power and will align with the driveshaft BUT I've never really paid attention to what the engine does under  power except that it rolls a bit to the passenger side because of the crank rotation but does does the tailshaft of the trans tilt Downward under full throttle?
it must under their equations

BTW here is SPICER's calculator comes in handy
Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Drive line angle
« Last post by Blackwater on July 15, 2019, 06:41:11 AM »
For optimum U-joint life, angle is, if not critical, at least important. Some of those jacked up 4X4s will have spare U-joints in the glove box or tool box at all times!! Some even carry a spare drive shaft and a lot of them only put the front shaft in when they go off road!!

Ome thing I've learned is that so long as the joint doesn't get TOO much angle, and so long as it isn't spun too fast, you can get by with some pretty odd configurations. Getting pinion angles adjusted properly can help, but remember that what you do on one end directly effects what happens on the other end.  If you take angle out at the pinion when the shaft runs downhill from the out put to the third member, it will take angle out at the other end as well, but IF your driveshaft runs UPHILL, the angle increases on one end as you decrease it on the other!  Don't rule out the double joint configuration on either or both ends. It's a little bulky and it's ugly as hell, but it can get you around some pretty radical angles, safely.
Rat Rod of the Day / Monday's pick me up
« Last post by lowboy on July 15, 2019, 04:34:49 AM »
Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Drive line angle
« Last post by lowboy on July 14, 2019, 07:14:18 PM »
sometimes I wonder if the angle is all that critical. Seen some 4x4 jacked up trucks running some off the wall angles
Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Starting with Suspension
« Last post by Ratty51F1 on July 14, 2019, 11:04:19 AM »
I have a 51 F1 and I just did the CPP front IFS with the T bolts in the upper hats because it was the cheaper version but if I had to do it again I would spend I couple extra $$ to upgrade to the tab style that can't slip if You hit a Bad pothole

It was the first time I ever did anything like that and really was all that hard to do, some grinding, measuring and welding

In the rear I did the TCI rear parabolic spring kit which was a bolt in for 51-52 just grind off the old rivets and drill 2 extra holes and all the old holes get used ... easy stuff, not sure about your year(check their instructions) and I ended up moving the upper shock mount bar forward an 1"-1/4 of their dimension as the shocks didn't line up top to bottom so watch out for that

Don't know if you are looking for a better ride but your trucks stance looks great as is

Rat Rod Build Questions / Re: Drive line angle
« Last post by Ratty51F1 on July 14, 2019, 10:47:23 AM »
I did what lowboy did Picked up a couple different magnetic/digital ones from summit that's been a Big help as the one I had with a needle pointer I had to crank my head to see it in confined spaces

The internet is full of opinions some informed some I'm sure not, even supposed magazine experts seem to be at odds which is confusing the heck out of me at the moment

Most agree at least 1/2 degree difference at each end of the drive shaft to "work" the grease in the U-joints is needed ...I get that

With my F1 on the ground/suspension loaded and temporarily mocked up I have......

Engine/trans 4 degrees  (which puts the carb mounting surface at 0 degrees/level)[using Holley Sniper anyway so not really an issue]

driveshaft 3 degrees

rear end 2.5 degrees

That leaves me at a 1 degree difference for the front u joint & a 1/2 degree on the rear u joint

This is the first time I've done this and want to get it right the first time(who doesn't) I know I tend to over think things ALOT but like I said who wants to go back and redo when you have the time to do it right!?

Anyone with some experience  on this want to comment please do

THANKS and Sorry for the Hijack  ::)

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