Topic: 1930 model A

[HDrider281]

Ok so I keep talking shit on here and doing nadda... I do have a 34 chevy rat that is a basket case,  that I got that way but it runs and drives and people ask a lot of questions.... so I wanna do my own project.... I just got back from a 2700 mile round trip where I went to get the sheet metal for a 34 ford truck... after 8 hours of looking around over 40 acres of antique junk yard I instead got a beautiful original model A... the best body I have ever seen for this.... partially restored.... frame off, sandblasted and painted... car is about 90% complete for an original restore and that is what I thought I would do.... until I googled original 30 ford sedans.... I can buy originals all day for 15K....   now I am confused....  I want a hot rod... and I have a perfect 30 sedan body...

[HDrider281]

I got sheet metal to fix my basket case chevy cab.... and this ford is stored for future project... I thought original til I saw what they would be worth.... original will do tops 35-40 MPH... fuk it... I want a hot rod that will burn the tires

[oldskool49]

Bonnie and Clyde, small block with proper drive train. Smoking.  Excellent find.

[HDrider281]

Bonnie and Clyde is exactly what I was thinking... I would like to keep the look as original as possible without molesting the look of the body but I want it to perform like a new model mustang.

With this frame can I put (SAFELY) an updated drive train that will put out no more than say 300 HP? I would like to stay 100% Ford ... possibly a 289 or a 302 with 4 speed manual. I also would like to have 4 wheel disc brakes.  Is something like this a possibility without having to do major frame modifications?  Will this frame handle this or will I twist the frame if step on it too hard?

What do they call the front end that keeps the ford front I beam? I have seen this look with front disc brakes. Are they using the original I beam or is it a whole other monster?

[HDrider281]

1 other thing about Vin numbers on these old fords... I was told that back then they used the motor number but that it was thought that there was a number stamped on the frame somewhere... does anyone know if this is right? and where would the number be stamped if it is?

[obama]

Frame number should be stamped on top of the frame rail under the drivers side cowl, about 3/4 inches back.
Yes, you do have to undo the front body mount bolt that's real close to it.
Pry up body about 3 inches and start cleaning.

[lowboy]

Model A"s have a "ladder" frame  and you'll find it about 14 " from front x member on Drivers side
It'll start with a star or an A there are also hidden ones but they are inconsistent as to location and whether their there or not

[HDrider281]

thanks.... I will look.... there shouldn't be much cleaning as the frame and undercarriage has already been blasted and painted. I am just curious right now as if the original motor is still in the car. I am going to try and title this car even though its not to be registered.... just to have a clear title for it

[miraclepieco]

With this frame can I put (SAFELY) an updated drive train that will put out no more than say 300 HP? I would like to stay 100% Ford ... possibly a 289 or a 302 with 4 speed manual. I also would like to have 4 wheel disc brakes.  Is something like this a possibility without having to do major frame modifications?  Will this frame handle this or will I twist the frame if step on it too hard?

What do they call the front end that keeps the ford front I beam? I have seen this look with front disc brakes. Are they using the original I beam or is it a whole other monster?

Prevailing wisdom says the stock Model A frame will not withstand V8 power. It should be either 1) boxed or 2) replaced. I have known a couple of guys who didn't box theirs and had no problems other than lots of twist.  Aftermarket Model A frames are a real bargain; you can get them for around $5-700. Or start cutting and welding boxing plates on the inside of your original frame - and try to do all that long welding run without warping it   

There are probably more aftermarket parts made for the Ford-type transverse leaf front suspension than any other type ever made.  I'd at least replace the stock front axle with a 4" dropped I-beam ($199) and throw on a disc brake kit ($300). The stock wishbones must be split to accommodate a V8. I have re-used A steering boxes but most people replace them with Vega, Saginaw, Corvair or Mustang.

I haven't seen a Model A body that good on the west coast in five years   

[oldskool49]

What about a V6? You can squeeze a lot out of one. But agree with reinforcing the frame no matter which way you go.

[lowboy]

I would advise against the model A frames I've got a friend that twisted his frame with a hopped up Model A engine    think id get with cornfield customs and get one of his frames if your unsure how to build one yourself

[hotwheels]

Great buy. Sadly as your research showed, restored they sell here in cheyenne for around 8k. If you build one of your rides into a rat rod, you can always keep that one and hot rod it. The nice thing about having something that complete is the fact you can go several different ways with that build.....congrats.

[HDrider281]

With this frame can I put (SAFELY) an updated drive train that will put out no more than say 300 HP? I would like to stay 100% Ford ... possibly a 289 or a 302 with 4 speed manual. I also would like to have 4 wheel disc brakes.  Is something like this a possibility without having to do major frame modifications?  Will this frame handle this or will I twist the frame if step on it too hard?

What do they call the front end that keeps the ford front I beam? I have seen this look with front disc brakes. Are they using the original I beam or is it a whole other monster?

Prevailing wisdom says the stock Model A frame will not withstand V8 power. It should be either 1) boxed or 2) replaced. I have known a couple of guys who didn't box theirs and had no problems other than lots of twist.  Aftermarket Model A frames are a real bargain; you can get them for around $5-700. Or start cutting and welding boxing plates on the inside of your original frame - and try to do all that long welding run without warping it   

There are probably more aftermarket parts made for the Ford-type transverse leaf front suspension than any other type ever made.  I'd at least replace the stock front axle with a 4" dropped I-beam ($199) and throw on a disc brake kit ($300). The stock wishbones must be split to accommodate a V8. I have re-used A steering boxes but most people replace them with Vega, Saginaw, Corvair or Mustang.

I haven't seen a Model A body that good on the west coast in five years   



I hope I am doing this quote thing right..... but where are you finding these  prices? each time I search I am finding good  custom frames and front ends but they are 10X what you say....

I have the 34 chevy rat and originally went to get sheet metal for my cab but while I was there I found this model A.... thanks for the compliment on the quality of the body.... I saw the same and had to have it.... I put it in storage for a future build of my own. my chevy I bought drivable as is complete and drivable.... my plan is to play with it and learn before I start on the model A. I also am conflicted on what I want to do with the model A but I need to put it on the back burner until I am absolutely sure what my plan is before hacking on it.

[miraclepieco]

but where are you finding these  prices? each time I search I am finding good  custom frames and front ends but they are 10X what you say....

You are probably looking at "Stage 3" chassis, complete with brakes, suspension, etc.  I am referring to bare frame, Stage 1 chassis, or what they call "perimeter frame."  Here's some from $400 - $900.

http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod-parts/28-31-model-a-ford/28-31-ford-perimeter-frame.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-1931-Ford-Model-A-Perimeter-Chassis-Frame-/261324076244
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Budget-Bare-Model-T-Frame,25112.html