Topic: My first rat build , please help, comment , advise , encourage ! 34 model A

[coony278]

 Well here is my choice to build a rat rod out of.  This will be the first time of building something like this. I have watched the rise of the rat rod and have always like them but was to busy with my racing to try and build one.

  Now iam not real good with the terminology with this kind of build so please help me out when iam wrong amd going in wrong direstion.

  First off is to get it in the shop , I have one last customer race car that iam finishing up a back half. Then I will get it in there and start thrashing. hopefully this weekend. 

  First up I ordered a vega steering box. PLan on doing a cross steer on the truck. 

 Next thing I would like to get order is the foot pedals , Iam having some trouble here , not sure what to do. Is best thing to do is sling them under the cab to the frame ?

  Also another question is I plan on leaving the truck rust ! When doing my welding. While finishing the chop top , I have to grind it off to good metal to weld , how do I get it back as rusty as the rest of the truck ?

 Ok thats enough rambling for now. any input is more than welcome. Iam just ready to get it going .

 Hope to have it gojng by christmas.

[lowboy]

welcome to the nation sounds like you got a good base to work with and most of your racecar knowledge will transfer lol as far as the patina questions someone else will have to answer that as i painted mine flat black

[hotwheels]

Great choice for a build......on your pedal question, with rusty trucks and cars you are better off putting your brake system in the floor off of the frame. The firewalls on the older vehicles are now weak from all the rust and as you use the brake if mounted to the firewall, will cause it to crack. Mounted to the frame, you will insure years of safe braking...Getting your rust back is pretty simple: *****Remember, always wear a respirator, gloves, goggles and proper clothing when using chemicals. It's best to work outside, too.*****

1) Clean steel with degreaser (like lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol)

2) Remove all millscale by soaking or spraying with muriatic acid, let sit until millscale rinses off. Repeat as necessary. If there is no millscale, rinse once with muriatic for a good etch.

3) Make sure piece is completely rinsed with clean water.

4) Wet down entire piece with chlorine bleach, sprinkle lightly with salt, and allow to sit until it dries. Spray the piece with water, but lightly so the dried salt/bleach mixture doesn't rinse off. Just wet the surface down. Let sit overnight.

5) The next morning, mix up a pint of FRESH hydrogen peroxide (standard 3% stuff found at drug stores) with a tablespoon of muriatic acid. Spray this mixture onto the piece. Allow to dry. Once dry, spray once more with this mixture. Let sit overnight.

6) Next morning, rinse completely with clean water, and you should have a decent rust by now. If there are areas that need more rusting, go back to step 5. Once you are happy with this rust, let it sit for a few days, lightly wetting the surface with water whenever it completely dries out. This will help the rust to really "set in" so it's not just a light surface rust that will brush off.

7) Wet the piece with water one last time, sprinkle on baking soda to neutralize any acids left behind. Gently wipe the baking soda around on the piece, which should help clean off any rust that is too loose. Be gentle, though.

Allow piece to dry, wipe down again with paint thinner to clean of any superficial haze rust on top of the good rust.

That should do it.......

[Greybeards Customs]

I recently made an addition to the grille shell on mine and sprayed straight vinegar and it rusted overnight

[miraclepieco]

Now iam not real good with the terminology with this kind of build so please help me out when iam wrong amd going in wrong direstion.

Also another question is I plan on leaving the truck rust ! When doing my welding. While finishing the chop top , I have to grind it off to good metal to weld , how do I get it back as rusty as the rest of the truck ?

Great looking truck!

Re terminology: The 34 is not a Model A. Model A is only years 1928-1931.  The 32-34 were Model B, I believe?

Re rusting the body: I am a big critic of "fake" anything on hot rods. I think fake rust is as phony as plastic bodies, Olds valve covers on a SBC, or dummy clutch pedals in an automatic trans (or falsies on a woman for that matter!).  To quote Hot Rod Magazine:  ..."the single most ridiculous trend ever: fake patina."  However, if you are just trying to get the freshly ground areas to match the rest of a naturally rusted body, I guess that's acceptable!

Check the build threads here on RRN for my 34 pickup low-buck build to give you ideas of what NOT to do!

[Greybeards Customs]

I can tell you this , after the chop on my car the weld itself rusted to a different tone than the existing metal , it has a much brighter colored rust if there is such a thing . I guess it is the difference in the formulation of the "old" steel vs. the new .

[coony278]

Re terminology: The 34 is not a Model A. Model A is only years 1928-1931.  The 32-34 were Model B, I believe?

 Now that is some good to know info right there. and thank you. I dont want to walk around ignorant to the fact.

  And the above rust recovery idea's are awesome! Glad to know that I can get the rust back.

 Now i was out looking over my project this afternoon and noticed another issue. What did you guys do the area where there is lead body filler ? I think it is factory ?

[coony278]

 I agree with above on the brakes going in the frame , most race cars I have built I put them on the frame.

 Do you usually use a straight pedal http://www.ebay.com/itm/380104396754?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649  such as previous link?

 Or a bent pedal such as this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/150895485699?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649.

 I am thinking the bent one can work best with an angle on the front of the floor it would take a very small hole for it to move in.

 Iam  just trying to get everything worked out in my mind so I can have a good bit of the parts here when I start on the beast

[Greybeards Customs]

If you are chopping the top it shouldn't interfere , but if it does just melt it off with a torch and wire brush it by hand and then torch it again and that should have it all gone . It will run off into the floor with minimal effort and heat . DO NOT GRIND it off !!!! I would hate to hear you died of lung cancer .

[lowboy]

i'd leave as much of the lead as i could think it'll look neat

[miraclepieco]

 Do you usually use a straight pedal http://www.ebay.com/itm/380104396754?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649  such as previous link?

 Or a bent pedal such as this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/150895485699?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649.
 I am thinking the bent one can work best with an angle on the front of the floor it would take a very small hole for it to move in.

Yes, the bent brake pedal arms are intended to go through the 45-degree toe boards on early bodies, leaving a minimal hole.  The straight one would work good with a flat floor.  Many rats have open floors and exposed transmissions so they don't care about sealing the floor (see photo attached)!

Also: Lead filler is highly desirable among purists, if you know any of them  ;-)

[desolit]

sit it in my driveway for a day. i cant stop anything from rusting there.

[coony278]

 Well I have made a little progress. The truck is in the shop and I have some of the frame for the floor built.

 I bought a farmall tractor grill , was thinking about putting it on the truck , but not sure. Maybe sell it and buy a 34 ford grill.

 What you all think ?

[Greybeards Customs]

do what your gut tells you , use the tractor grille until you find something that you like better comes along.

[hotwheels]

I love the tractor grille look on rat rods, but looking at your ride, i would sell that grille and buy a ford grille. I think that would make your ride look tough. In the end though, i have to agree with greybeards, do what your gut tells yea. You'll know when you stand back and look at the entire picture.

[coony278]

 I finally started on the truck. First thing I thought I would tackle was to get some floor boards in it and get it braced back up to where is wasnt flopping.

  After getting the doors to where they would fit again, I built the floor framing and started the sheet metal in the floor.

  I will get the hump built tomorrow and will have to wait for my master cylinder / bake pedal  to get here so I can mount it before finishing the drivers floor. 

[Dustin Arnett]

 I'd go with a different grill also. Either way, I'm sure you'll make it look good     thanks for sharing


~Dustin

[hotwheels]

Nice work on the floors............wow

[Greybeards Customs]

The floors do look good .

[coony278]

 I have gotten a little more progress, I have a tail gate now , and a windshield frame.  The frame to hold the bed on is built.

  I worked on getting the lead off the truck. Gosh what mess. I dont know why they leaded up the vent in the cowl but they did and now I have a huge mess.  See pic.
   
  I used my torch to get out what I have so far. When can I sand on this with out causing my self bodily harm ? 

  I just dont know anything about lead , how can it hurt you ? What can I do with it and not do ?

   The windsheild frame use to fit a 35 chevy the previuos owner said. LOL now it fits a 34 Ford

[hotwheels]

A couple of rules when working with lead, wear a respirator and make sure you keep your garage door open or do the work outside. Next, using a propane torch and a wire brush. Heat up the lead and use your wire brush to remove it. You can sand anytime again, just be sure to wear a respirator and keep the area ventilated.

I like the frame, it looks awesome......

[coony278]

 Well I have been on the move for the past few days. I have really gotten a lot  done.


 The floor boards are done. With the brakes pedal and master cylinder all mounted.





 I finally got all the lead out of the cowl , I think I will just hit it with some 80 grit sand paper on a da and see if I can get the rust to match the rest of the truck.

 

 Now I spent most of the day working on the drivers door. I really like the looks of the door but  to be honest it is rust holding hands. I hope I can keep the door together cause I like the way it looks. Maybe some one can shed some light on how I could keep it together ?  Iam not real pleased with the work I did on the door , but I did not know what else to do without  changing the look of the door and rebuilding it.

 



  The roof is all back on the truck now


\

 And the bed is all back together all welded up , with a working tail gate, dont ask why the gate has three seems in it evidently I couldn't measure that day LOL

 


  Shouldnt be much longer and I can break it all down and get the frame all together and build it back up for the last time.

  I hope to drive it a few days before Christmas

 

[hotwheels]

The floor turned out really nice man and your helper looks wicked sitting in the cab..........awesome.

[lowboy]

coming along well the seams add caricture(?) keep that help close now  they get big in a hurry :'(

[coony278]

 Yeah its hard to keep him in the shop long , but he always seems to be around for pictures