Topic: Army Truck Build (Read 44908 times)

hotwheels · « **Reply #25 on:** August 04, 2015, 04:30:34 AM »

wow, very impressive.

JustBob · « **Reply #26 on:** August 30, 2015, 06:40:24 PM »

More progress ... got the rear suspension done ... and come up with a name.

hotwheels · « **Reply #27 on:** September 01, 2015, 04:26:28 PM »

Looks awesome and I think the name is perfect.

JustBob · « **Reply #28 on:** September 03, 2015, 02:40:29 PM »

Got a roller again.

The torsion bar setup:

The bushing here is large and gives enough that it eliminates the need for a pan hard bar. At least that is the plan ... LOL.

hotwheels · « **Reply #29 on:** September 04, 2015, 04:35:27 AM »

Very nice setup

Rubberhead · « **Reply #30 on:** September 04, 2015, 05:28:23 AM »

Interesting, I've never seen a torsion bar set-up where the torsion bar wasn't at the arm pivot point. What is suspending the aft end of the torsion bar in the frame rail? Minimal and clean set-up for sure; that's what I'm shooting for as well.

Blackwater · « **Reply #31 on:** September 04, 2015, 06:02:16 AM »

Neat settup! And you're right!! It shouldn't need a panhard bar. Good name also!!

I'm calling mine Lockjaw. It kinda' fits the appearance of the car.

JustBob · « **Reply #32 on:** September 04, 2015, 07:13:12 AM »

Quote from: Rubberhead on September 04, 2015, 05:28:23 AM

Interesting, I've never seen a torsion bar set-up where the torsion bar wasn't at the arm pivot point. What is suspending the aft end of the torsion bar in the frame rail? Minimal and clean set-up for sure; that's what I'm shooting for as well.

I just more or less copied the explorer setup .... the torsion bar connected to the lower a arm beside the pivot point bushing same as I have here .. I even used the same insert that I cut out of the a arm .... the aft just set in a perch which I made in the frame rail instead of using the stock perch .... the tension holds it in place . I figure if it works for Ford it will work for Chev .... uhhh this. It's experimental ... gonna stress test it before putting it in traffic.

JustBob · « **Reply #33 on:** September 04, 2015, 08:34:03 AM »

Need advice on ways ... colors for bare metal .... I like the bare metal look I have on some parts other than it's to bright in spots.

Any ideas on a finish to get that look?

JustBob · « **Reply #34 on:** September 04, 2015, 03:29:29 PM »

Quote from: JustBob on September 04, 2015, 08:34:03 AM

Need advice on ways ... colors for bare metal .... I like the bare metal look I have on some parts other than it's to bright in spots.

Any ideas on a finish to get that look?

Sorry guys .... after doing some research ... I see this subject has been beat to death on the internet .... seems me and a few hundred others want that bare metal look only to be disappointed because we cannot get it.

So now I'm on a quest to figure out how to make paint look like bare metal. I'll let you know what I find.

Rubberhead · « **Reply #35 on:** September 04, 2015, 06:21:28 PM »

Quote from: JustBob on September 04, 2015, 07:13:12 AM

Quote from: Rubberhead on September 04, 2015, 05:28:23 AM
Interesting, I've never seen a torsion bar set-up where the torsion bar wasn't at the arm pivot point. What is suspending the aft end of the torsion bar in the frame rail? Minimal and clean set-up for sure; that's what I'm shooting for as well.

I just more or less copied the explorer setup .... the torsion bar connected to the lower a arm beside the pivot point bushing same as I have here .. I even used the same insert that I cut out of the a arm .... the aft just set in a perch which I made in the frame rail instead of using the stock perch .... the tension holds it in place . I figure if it works for Ford it will work for Chev .... uhhh this. It's experimental ... gonna stress test it before putting it in traffic.

Thanks for the info. I don't know about trusting the hole in the frame to keep the rear of the torsion bar located, that's not something that I'd trust or even do due to wear but maybe I'm missing something...

JustBob · « **Reply #36 on:** September 05, 2015, 07:03:47 AM »

Quote from: Rubberhead on September 04, 2015, 06:21:28 PM

Quote from: JustBob on September 04, 2015, 07:13:12 AM
Quote from: Rubberhead on September 04, 2015, 05:28:23 AM
Interesting, I've never seen a torsion bar set-up where the torsion bar wasn't at the arm pivot point. What is suspending the aft end of the torsion bar in the frame rail? Minimal and clean set-up for sure; that's what I'm shooting for as well.

I just more or less copied the explorer setup .... the torsion bar connected to the lower a arm beside the pivot point bushing same as I have here .. I even used the same insert that I cut out of the a arm .... the aft just set in a perch which I made in the frame rail instead of using the stock perch .... the tension holds it in place . I figure if it works for Ford it will work for Chev .... uhhh this. It's experimental ... gonna stress test it before putting it in traffic.

Thanks for the info. I don't know about trusting the hole in the frame to keep the rear of the torsion bar located, that's not something that I'd trust or even do due to wear but maybe I'm missing something...

Well .... that part never moves until you turn the adjustment screw .... I could have used the cast perches which was still metal on metal from the factory ... but I needed all the room upstairs that I could get here, but I do have them and may still install them If I need to take up some slack.

Rubberhead · « **Reply #37 on:** September 05, 2015, 08:25:56 AM »

You're right that it never moves, that's a good point.

JustBob · « **Reply #38 on:** September 06, 2015, 01:22:29 PM »

Quote from: Rubberhead on September 05, 2015, 08:25:56 AM

You're right that it never moves, that's a good point.

Probably gonna need to beef up the frame a little there though.

JustBob · « **Reply #39 on:** September 06, 2015, 01:29:08 PM »

Found the bare metal effect I want. The motor mount and shock absorber ... This will be the solution to the problem of clear coating bare metal. Now we can make it look like bare metal with paint ... and my opinion ... looks better than bare metal .... has that worn metal terminator look.

JustBob · « **Reply #40 on:** September 06, 2015, 02:16:18 PM »

I gonna go ahead and assume someone on here is gonna want to know how to do this.

First .... as you can see in the earlier pics of the front end ... the bare metal clear coated is way to bright not to mention ... I've searched and researched and reviewed and seems you can't clear coat bare metal and expect it to last outdoors ... some of my first parts I cleared over starting rusting even in my shop.

So ... how to get a bare metal effect with paint.

This is how I did it ,.... simple .... matter of fact so simple anyone can do it. I expected failure and figured it may take a lot of practice to get it the way I wanted.
Turns out after two tries and one hour time I had it down.

You need to paint your part black .... but first ... take the bare metal and slick it up then clean it with reducer then put some kinda rust agent on it ... I used OSPHO .. let it set 24 hours .. then slick it up again ..the slicker the better ... epoxy primer if you want .... then paint. .. I used satin black because that's what I had on hand. Let it dry ... I let mine dry to just past tacky ... take a piece of t shirt and make a golf ball size or so .. actually.. I used an old pair of undies.. same stuff .. wet it with reducer and let that dry just a little ... you want it barely damp ... spray a very light mist of aluminum color paint on the rag .... brush ever so lightly ... I mean just brush up against it .... make sure you use a straight stroke ... hit the high spots and edges first .. you want it to kinda smear on there ... and you add more mist of paint to get lighter .... more reducer to go darker . .... be sure and use straight in line strokes or ever how you want the grain to look. And be sure and leave some of it black ... like inside corners and such ... I also left more black on the backside of my motor mount to give it that worn effect .... worn more on the outside than on the backside look.

When you get it as light as you want it ... while rubbing it ... as the paint and the reducer dries you can start rubbing harder and harder to get that polished look.

Took me all of five minutes to do after painting it black.

Now you have a painted part that has an awesome bare metal look ... clear it if you want to... these are not cleared.

hotwheels · « **Reply #41 on:** September 06, 2015, 03:27:45 PM »

That is some awesome information.

miraclepieco · « **Reply #42 on:** September 06, 2015, 09:31:33 PM »

Looks great!

JustBob · « **Reply #43 on:** September 23, 2015, 02:43:23 PM »

Progress update

Bobaluma · « **Reply #44 on:** September 23, 2015, 08:16:48 PM »

Ho De Doe Mofo! Now that's a sweet build! Slick and tricky suspension and an awsome look! Keep up the good work!

Blackwater · « **Reply #45 on:** September 23, 2015, 08:52:28 PM »

LOOKIN' GOOD!!!!

JustBob · « **Reply #46 on:** September 24, 2015, 06:11:42 AM »

Thanks for the comps guys

hotwheels · « **Reply #47 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:22:03 PM »

Damn, that looks good

SkinnyPedal · « **Reply #48 on:** October 28, 2015, 06:58:03 PM »

BAD ASS KEWL!!!!!

One of my Fav builds.

Thanks for the paint info. I will try that out.

obama · « **Reply #49 on:** October 28, 2015, 10:08:30 PM »

The truck is looking good, nice tip on the bare metal paint.

News:

AuthorTopic: Army Truck Build (Read 44908 times)

miraclepieco