Topic: Project "Double Trouble" has begun

[helo-tech]

Hey all,

Well, it's official, after spending close to a year accumulating parts and doing research, I've start fabrication of project "double trouble".

here's the overall jist of it:

twin SBC 350's
TH400 automatic
1955 Ford F100 cab
1955 Ford straight axle with Disk brakes.
Jeep Cherokee rear end with posi.
35 x 12.5 x 16 A/T tires and wheels.
custom build frame and suspension.

the rest I'll figure out as I go.
I'll post some pictures once my hosting site is back up and running.

going this afternoon to pick up the steel for the main frame and suspension pieces.

[hotwheels]

That's awesome. Can't wait to see build pics.

[obama]

This should be an interesting build, looking forward to it.

[miraclepieco]

here's the overall jist of it:
twin SBC 350's
1955 Ford F100 cab
1955 Ford straight axle with Disk brakes.
Jeep Cherokee rear end with posi.
35 x 12.5 x 16 A/T tires and wheels.
custom build frame and suspension.

"Custom built frame?"  What, you mean to tell me that they don't make a stock production frame for a '55 Ford PU with twin Chevy engines, a Jeep rear and 35" tires???   

[helo-tech]

you know, as hard as I looked I couldn't find one anywhere (go figure), you'd think it would be a common thing.



"Custom built frame?"  What, you mean to tell me that they don't make a stock production frame for a '55 Ford PU with twin Chevy engines, a Jeep rear and 35" tires???   
[/quote]


Here's a couple of the project in the "layout" phase, just trying to see how things look and relate to each other, I will probably delete the yellow nose piece as I'm not sure its fitting for the style of it.

[hotwheels]

That is gonna be bad ass. Saw a truck here in Cheyenne that had two engines running. Guy did a great job getting the engines synced.

[helo-tech]

well, made some progress on the main frame Friday. got the front half mocked up and the engine "cradle" installed in it, good thing I only tacked things together because I already found a couple minor issues to address.

you'll notice that I created an engine "cradle" to hold the engines and transmission at a fixed relationship to each other but now I'm able to isolate the vibrations from the main frame and body of the beast.

the front suspension will likely be a modified version of a "t-bucket" style solid front axle, I'm considering using a transverse leaf to carry the front but using control arms instead of hairpins.

I've yet to settle on the rear suspension, I may end up going with a "Z'd" frame but have the room to leave the frame under the axle and do a "flipped" leaf spring suspension and let the frame "hang" from the axle. I still have some "backyard" engineering to do on that part.

here's a few pictures of the progress:

[Blackwater]

I have a question.  Why so much distance between the two engines. We used to use a coupler that connected the two engines using a double roller chain and a pair of sprockets, one mounted to the front of the rear crankshaft and the other bolted to the flywheel of the front engine.  I even saw a 392 Hemi and a 327 Chevy run successfully like this.

I'm NOT criticizing!!!  I'm just naturally curious. NEAT project!!

[helo-tech]

that sounds like the same coupling I found, that amount of distance was not necessary but I do need some to have room for the electric water pump, and I figured if I had to extend it anyway, might as well give myself some working room. good question though.

[hotwheels]

That's looking good....

[lowboy]

Wow thats gonna be awesome. I was also curios about the big space. Love the explanation! Keep us informed about the build.

[helo-tech]

made a little more progress last night, got the front axle attached to the frame and was able to get some measurements for the front spring. I'm gonna end up going with a "transverse" leaf attached to the front x-member.

I may end up installing some type of bracket on the control arm pivots, I'm not sure I trust the 1/2" grade 8 bolts enough. will have to make that decision before the final welding takes place.

[hotwheels]

Looks really good. Grade 8's are tough but I think I would do some welding just incase.

[helo-tech]

thanks, it's actually coming together much better than I expected.

I know the T-buckets run a smaller bolt than that and don't have issues but with all the weight and torque this thing will have makes me question having just the bolts, but at least it's mounted enough to get the measurements I need.

[Blackwater]

If you're not going to float the front axle, i.e. some kind of pivot capability, you'll need to go to a BIG tie rod end or a ball joint of some sort in the place of those 1/2" bolts.  I know you're just jigging everything up right now, so I'm only chiming in on what I can see.  I'm seeing some great possibilities..

Keep it up!!

[helo-tech]

thanks for the input and ideas, I appreciate them a lot.

I did think about the "pivot" action of the front axle when I designed this setup, I intentionally used 1/8" wall 2 x 2 square tube. there is enough flexibility in the tube that it can "twist" a bit with the axle movement. I put a floor jack under one corner of the axle and was able to lift it about 5" before the other wheel tried to "get lite". I doubt there well be that much movement on the road ?

on another note, Does anyone have any formula or process for figuring weight distribution?  I'm trying to get an idea of how much weight will be on the front axle so I can get the spring close to the right load rating. I've done some gross calculations and figure the "un-sprung" weight for around 2800 lbs.. the way I figure it, about 75% to 80% of the weight will be on the front axle. so I'm guessing the spring for somewhere around 2240. leaf springs that are the correct dimensions are readily available in different load ratings, I'm looking at a spring that is right at 2250. unless someone has another thought, I'll probable get that one and make it work.

thanks for the support

and did I mention, I plan on running axle mounted fenders on all 4 wheels, kind of a floating look to them. they will probably be dang near full coverage too.

[lowboy]

I used a similar setup on the rear axle on my bug and it came loose. I used the factory ubolts. I now watch them really close.

[helo-tech]

Got a bit more done yesterday, managed to get the front spring installed and now have the front of the beast sitting on it's own suspension. I still need to figure out the shock mounts but that shouldn't be too hard.

now on to the cab frame and mounts, but first I need to cut out some of the floor for the driveshaft. once done, I can slide the cab forward a bit then proceed with the frame work.

[hotwheels]

Heck yea, that's lookin good.

[helo-tech]

yet some more progress, tonight I got the cab support frame fitted and welded in, I was also able to get the rear end positioned.





now on to the rear suspension, which has me stumped for now------there will be no bed or cover to hide the rear setup and I'm looking for something unusual and cool but obviously need it functional, I'd rather not go with the standard leaf spring setup or coil spring setup ----I'm not even sure I want to "Z" the frame.



anyone have any ideas or pictures of something that would look cool???

thanks

[Blackwater]

You want different?  Think transverse torsion bar. 

[miraclepieco]

I'm kinda liking the looks of it underslung like you have it now.  You could always continue the "Double" theme with twin transverse leaf springs.  Or Jag type suspension with double coilovers each side. Quarter ellipticals? Here's some on the Randy Grubb's Pissed-Off Pete"

[helo-tech]

ut-oh, Houston, we have a problem.......maybe !!!!!!

ok guys, I need some input on this issue, I'm pretty sure I'm going with the under slung frame setup using two leaf springs. I was in the layout phase and when I got to the shocks, I found the issue. if I let the frame hang under the axle, when I install shocks they will be working in reverse and I'm not sure they can do that. usually shocks are mounted in an orientation where when you hit a bump the axle moves up and compresses the shock then they rebound.

in my configuration, when you hit a bump, the axle moves up but this extends the shocks. I hope I'm making this clear but it's kind of muddy in my mind too LOL. maybe I'm just overthinking things but I'm pretty sure I have an issue with my setup.

please send some input to I can continue forward.

thanks,

[Blackwater]

So long as you use a 50/50 shock, it shouldn't be an issue.  You could use a double adjustable shock, where compression and rebound are both adjustable.  One adjustment controls rebound. The other controls speed.  You should be able to find a combination that works.

[helo-tech]

thanks for the input, I actually did some more research about this issue after posting the above and found the same thing, use 50/50 shocks and that will cover it. I found the shocks on Speedway's website, I'll be using their "hot rod" shocks on the front and back. I'm not too worried about "dialing it in" with the adjustable shocks as this won't be a daily driver and I have enough weight to help it be smooth.

thanks again for the input, I'll post some more pictures after I get back to work on it, I'm fighting with a back issue right now and it's too sore to work on it much.

by the way, how do I get a picture to show up on the side of the first post like everyone elses??